From Hommage to Daido Moriyama, a set on Flickr.
Daido Moriyama and William Klein exhibition at the Tate Modern. Two great street photographers side by side.
Getting the Daido look
I tried to get the look by shooting Kodak Tri-X at ISO 3200 and then developing it in warm D76, still not noisy and contrasty enough for the Daido look. Damn he must treat that film badly!
Seemingly a large component of the Daido look is to heavily crop and enlarge small 35mm negatives to accentuate the grain.
Leica M6, Summicron 40/2. Kodak Tri-X in HC110
I often load a film at night and leave it in the tank ready for developing another day with a Post It to remind me not to open it, as well as which film is in there.
Teething Problems 101
I’ve been using Kodak HC-110 to develop my films (Ilford HP5 above) in my Patterson System 4 tank and reels. There have been troubles…
- Loading the reels takes practice, and is not made easier by the fact that the CL reverse loads the film onto its spool – it’s best to cut a generous amount of the film leader off and to leave it rewound in the cannister for 24-hours before loading onto the developing reel.
- I had the European Concentrate version of Kodak HC-110. Very confusingly, in 500ml bottles this is weaker than the 1L concentrate syrup sold to the rest of the world (and the UK). I was diluting as per 1L syrup and thus using only 30% of the required developer, no wonder my negatives were pale.
- Scanning is a black art requiring precise repetition of steps and careful preparation of the negatives so that they are as flat as possible to achieve even exposure. I tried a few methods but gave in and got a Canoscan 8800F which is a reasonably priced and relatively high-end scanner that gets good reviews.